AStephen2011
03.05.2021 18:39:33
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20lb/sheet, and a motorboard-style Hydrostream transom uses much less than one sheet, including large knees.
The goal here is to build an I beam or several of them, and that is going to be very strong. [links]
installed knee in center pod bedded with structural putty
it is 2 layers 3/4 coosa blue water 26# with 1708 in between
each peice. 20" tall by 26" long. more
No mat, all S3 epoxy, 12oz 45/45 and 0-90 biax alternating for the transom. Only place I used mat was the stitched backing on 1708, applied to the outer skin to rebuild thickness lost in grinding. Lay it up wet-on-wet. All bought from BBC (link in post above), they are local to me.
The boat is old (1972) and I have yet to remove the plywood from the transom. From what I have seen so far the transom will be very rotted and easy to remove leaving the transom shell. Since the shell is so old I still think putting one 1/2" coosa sheet in first and insuring it is thourouly bonded to the transom shell by means of matt/screws/clamps or whatever is the way to go. I can do this while the transom is still vertical. There are plenty of existing holes in the transom shell to facilitate this. Adding a couple of screw holes in the shell to secure the coosa board to the shell would be easy and then the next 2 coosa boards would have no holes. Also due to the 15 degree angle of the transom putting in the 1st 1/2" piece would allow me to custom fit the next 2 pieces and have a "stair step" edge along the top and bottom which would be easy to level with resin and glass.
Glass belongs on the outside in a composite structure, it's a waste of money and weight to put it anywhere else. I learned that from several very smart people (airplane designers), but still had to prove it for myself so I actually did some lab tests with various layup schedules. Sure enough the panels with glass in the middle were significantly weaker than panels with the same amount of glass all on the outside.I too learned from some very smart people, some of which frequent this board. ginger and the like, If i understand you correctly, what would you put in between the layers of coosa? The goal here is to build an I beam or several of them, and that is going to be very strong. Food for thought though. gb [links]
Probably should move this over to member projects from here. More to follow. My supplier agrees with Bruce. Vinylester would be fine for the 1708 lamination but for adhering the laminated boards to an unknown boat hull composition we'll go with epoxy. Epoxy is all encompassing over poly or vinylester, I'm told you can NOT use poly or vinyl over epoxy. [links]
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A little more progress on the Coosa transom in the '64 Sunray
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Pic 1 barn find
Pic 2 old trailer made it home
Pic 3 removing floor and wet foam
Pic 4 drying out
Pic 5 rotten transom removed
Pic 6 pounds of wet nasty floor, foam, transom and glass
Pic 7 cardboard then more rigid foam template made
Pic 8 trial fit and figuring out how to swing 2 layers up in there
Pic 9 coosa cut
Pic 10 yes, there was a thin transom plate, and some additional trim to the left and right that covered an OPEN seam. perfect area for water to roll round the fins and drop in to soak the wood! a little extra glass and gel coat would have been easy at the time? [links]
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I was wondering how those worked. Seems like they are getting more popular
I really love epoxy but for certain things I avoid it, because it does have interaction issues. For instance I'm building a new boat right now (not the sorta boat people talk about here, a downeast :) ) and things where you want something better than polyester are being done with vinylester, it's got good adhesion, I can work with multiple layers without prepping using unwaxed, and I can still gelcoat it.
Pricey, but worth it. Cuts in hard to get places, and makes un-rotted core areas come up without hull damage because of the flat cut it makes. Not a replacement for a grinder, but for all else.