Lord Jebe
26.04.2021 15:17:29
4) Grab whatever part of stud you can, and try to spin it out.
See full version: Broken Head Studs in Waterboxer Engines
4) Grab whatever part of stud you can, and try to spin it out.
If you cannot get the remainder of the steel stud threads out of the aluminum block threads (about a 50/50 proposition), continue as follows; here
Note: If during this process you accidentally drill off-center, the repair might require thread repairs and/or welding and/or discarding the block and starting over.
Holding the blanks in bored jaws 1.75" deep seating against the back finished face of the blank.
Here's how I have this programmed. Drill to -1.25" deep, retract move over and bore to 1.470 dia. by -1.2" deep at 400RPM using the drill as a boring bar. here
Move back in X to zero up RPM to 650 RPM and drill to -1.75 deep, then retract in Z to -1.15, move up in X and bore to -1.7 deep. that process repeats until I get to -2.245 (allows .005 on bottom for finish). [links]
Running at 650 RPM's and .003/rev. Tried .002"/rev. no difference. here
That makes sense, things run with a certain amount of clearance behind the business end.
Does the drilled hole stay the same size on deep holes? I wouldn't be surprised to see it wander off center.here
I do it on a regular basis but I'm not doing it for the purpose of hitting a particular size, too many variables in the equation to have a reliable outcome in the hole size. You could after much trial and error with using a drill gauge and measuring flute length establish somewhat of a reliable pattern for hitting a size. IMO you're better off using the correct tooling like you normally would.[links]
I'm missing something. You need an on sized drilled hole that you are going to ream to the same size after welding. What's the point?
You don't have undersized drill rod for locating for the welding op? Seems like that might be a workable solution. depending on a lot of things. here
Secondary Test here
(2) Install a deeper oil pan. High volume pumps will pull all of the oil out of a stock pan creating a lack of lubrication. more
One last procedure we recommend that is very effective and probably the easiest to perform is to fill four of the five slots around the bottom bushing with RTV silicone. The RTV silicone will stop most of the oil that’s being blown past the bushing from going to the top. Leaving one of the slots open will allow the bushing to receive enough oil to prevent any damage to the shaft or bushing itself. To perform this procedure, you will need to remove the distributor gear by knocking out the roll pin. Once you remove the gear, keep all of the shims and tang washer together. Remove the main shaft. Use an RTV silicone (available at any auto parts store) to fill in four of the 5 slots around the bushing. The illustration to the left has the arrows pointing to the areas that need the silicone. Allow the silicone to dry completely before reassembling the distributor. Once dry, install the shaft and put the tang washer and shims back on in the order they were removed. Reinstall the distributor gear and you are ready to go racing!
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(1) Drill a .030″ hole in the lifter/oil galley plug behind the distributor. This will allow additional lubrication on the distributor and cam gears.
For reasons I won't mention here, I'm not dealing with this particular gunsmith anymore.
Re: off center reciever holes
Re: off center reciever holes [links]