See full version: Why is my gelcoat fish eyeing
I work with a painter thats been painting for decades, He always tells me not to wipe any part down with anything but clean water and a rag. I always wiped stuff with acetone, i was painting my motor cowling and wiped it with acetone before I painted, what do you know, lots of fisheyes, I cant guarentee it was caused by that but thats what he said. It sucks. Some paint brands have fish eye eliminator additive.
Only when I started trying out clear gloss additives did I encounter fish eyes in gelcoat here
If its freshly sanded where did the wax, grease, or other contaminants come from? If you dont touch it with your fingers it should be clean. This guy's been around the world working on high end sport fishers.
what brand gel is dont tell me its mini craft here
It could be coming out of the Compressor
they sell mini airline Filters at autobody Supply shops
Screws right onto the Gun
that compressor has to be the exxon valdez to cause that problem, product incompatibility sounds more like it.
Fish eye is almost always caused by silicone that has managed to get into the wood – for example, through a crack in the finish. Silicone is a synthetic material made from silicon (similar to sand), oxygen, carbon and hydrogen. It can be a liquid, gel, resin or hard plastic. You are surely familiar with silicone caulk, and you may have heard of silicone breast implants. Silicone is totally inert, meaning that is doesn’t react with anything.
Add one-to-two full eyedroppers to a quart of finish. This will make the finish feel a little slicker and it may raise the gloss slightly. You could decide to add silicone to a finish on purpose when you want it to have these characteristics. here
The trick is to build a thickness of lacquer without wetting the surface. Then apply a coat wet enough to dissolve all of the dust coats and combine them together, but not so wet that it causes the fish eye to come through. It will take some practice to get this right, but I know it works because I did it many times before I learned of the existence of the silicone products I could add to the lacquer.
Both would require sanding and buffing
I know one option is to just shoot gelcoat, thinned with styrene as needed, catalyze with MEKP, and shoot PVA on the final coat.
Well i dont know about DANGEROUS lol more
Both would require sanding and buffing [links]
I have prepped the bottom of my Valero YT for gelcoat and choose to shoot the small transom area first as a trial area. I spray black gelcoat first, thinned with styrene, 1.5 - 2.0% MEKP, with no fisheyes in the gelcoat and minimal orange peel. I let it flash off for 20-30 minutes, then shoot clear gelcoat with 50% Duratec, thinned 5%., 1.5 - 2.0% MEKP catalyst,
Are there any other options for spraying gelcoat??
Next, clean the surface with or Acetone. All surfaces must be clean, dry and free from grease, wax, oil, and other foreign matter. At this point, the repair is ready to spray or brush with gelcoat.
Did not use a surfacing agent – In order to cure properly most gelcoat requires the use of a surfacing agent on the final coat. The most common type of surfacing agent is Wax Additive Sanding Aid. This wax additive seals off the surface from oxygen in the air, allowing the gelcoat to dry tack-free. The recommended ratio is 1 oz wax to 1 quart of gelcoat. The first coat of gelcoat does not need the wax since you will apply a second coat. When mixing gelcoat for the second coat, though, don’t forget to add in the wax additive. All Gelcoats from the Bottom Paint Store come with the MEKP catalyst and wax additive sanding aid, but additional amounts can be purchased. If you don’t add a wax additive to the final coat (or only coat) of gelcoat it will not harden. This is true even if you added the correct amount of catalyst. here
Ultra Plus Brushable Gelcoat by FGCI is one exception to this because it does not require a surfacing agent/ wax additive, but still requires the correct amount of catalyst. Just let it sit overnight to ensure it’s completely cured.
here
In order to prepare the surface correctly it must be sanded. The heavier fast-cut grits (40/80/100) are used to feather sand and ground out a routed area prior to filling. Also, they are used for the first sanding of gouges, scratches, and blisters. When sanding areas that have been filled with putty we suggest using 40 or 80 grit sandpaper, depending on how large the repair is. You should also feather the surrounding area of the gelcoat repair with 220/330. When sanding flat areas use a rubber block. Use 3M Abrasives for best results.