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Now, if you're really lucky, the carbs won't "puke" gas all over, or be all plugged-up inside. If they are, you'll need to dig deeper as per the "awakening" instructions. Normally you won't need a "rebuld" kit, only a "carb packing" kit for each carb (relatively inexpensive). here
Warm up fully and check for water pumping/good idling/shifting/etc. [links]
I'd also recommend replacing the fuel pump diaphragm/gaskets. They will have dried out and may not pump well. More-or-less routine maintenance. here
If the in-water test works out, time for a full tune-up including link/sync (of which you'll find instructions in the repair archive), distributor service (clean/inspect cap, etc), any other odds-n-ends. [links]
Last thought: Probably a good idea to do a compression check; if you've got a bum cylinder, no sense in putting a lot of work into it for naught. Do the check with all the spark plugs removed. You can "jump" the solenoid with the key off, by applying +12V to the yellow wire on the starter solenoid. Ideally all compression readings will be within 5 psi of each other, but if they're a bit more uneven, you can still run the motor and decarbonize it afterwards with Seafoam or OMC Engine Tuner, and sometimes that'll help if the rings are carboned-up.
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