So you are saying there's nothing I can do at the point? [links]
See full version: Discussion Forum
So you are saying there's nothing I can do at the point? [links]
That filler will never accept stain the same as the wood. It won't matter how much you sand and restrain. more
The filler color has to be as close as possible to the final stained wood color. There are wax- and sharpie-type pens and I have a few but frankly they never work for me. You can buy them in a set of 3-6 wood colors for around $10 and your can give it a try. You'll probably be more successful with actual paint. Dashner Design & Restoration (YouTube) uses paint regularly. Not just one color of say brown, but a few and a fine point brush, and you literally paint the wood color where the stain doesn't work.
After doing my (late) research, I know this is NOT a unique or new issue and have learned PLENTY about how to do it differently next time.
SO, we made a mantle, filled the nail holes with wood filler, sanded down, stained, and BAM light spots over the “stainable” wood filler. I know the issue is that the filler closed the wood pores, won’t accept the stain, etc. Some have recommended digging it all out, and plugging the hole with the same wood as the rest of the mantle, but I’m really hoping we can just sand it down a lot more and the stain will set better. Thoughts? Hoping for recommendations on how to fix it now, as opposed to how to avoid it later. Thank you!!
Its advantages are that it is fast drying, has low shrinkage and comes in several versions to fit various woods. In order to sand down wood fillers perfectly, you must begin with the proper preparation of the wood and proper use of the wood filler. Once the wood filler is applied and sanded, it can be painted or stained.
If you have a hole in your wood that needs to be filled, first remove any debris with a small screwdriver or knife. Sand the edges of the cavity with sandpaper to smooth them out.
It is extremely important to let the filler dry thoroughly before you begin to sand. Use coarser grit sandpaper to start the sanding. Sand thoroughly, using even pressure. As you get closer to the surface, change to fine-grit sandpaper. The goal is to sand the filler down flat with the surface of the wood and make it as indictable as possible. You want the smoothest surface possible so the finishing paint or sealant will not show the filler underneath. [links]
Elmer’s ProBond Wood Filler, however, stained significantly worse than the other three. It stood out on both the lighter and darker stained boards, and on the lighter board, didn’t even turn a shade that was elsewhere on the wood. here
I typically put in a drop of wood glue at time, and mix in between drops. When the wood filler seems sticky enough to stay in the hole, I stop adding glue and pack it in as tightly as I can.
The DIY Wood Filler and DAP Plastic Wood also performed well. The DIY Wood Filler was almost invisible on the darker wood, and there was one hole that I couldn’t find at all! here
The technique does matter – by wiping on the stain (and not painting it on and wiping it later,) I restricted the amount of stain that the wood could absorb. This helps both the wood and the wood filler absorb stain evenly. more
You’ve got a couple options. If you have a good sander, try sanding down the area and testing the stain again. Sanding removes material, and as more wood is removed, it’s likely that whatever was blocking penetration was removed as well. more
Visually inspecting your piece is the easiest way to tell if the wood has already been sealed. Is the wood look glossy? Does it feel smooth, like it has a coating on it? If you sand a little bit, do you get sawdust, or do you get clear coating dust?
You can remove finish from curvy and carved areas, it’s just time consuming and tedious. The same process I linked above applies. more
Unfortunately, your best solution here is the gel stain/stain+finish option I described above, because those sit on top of the wood and don’t need to soak into the pores. Once again, just to be safe, apply Zinsser’s Shellac Sealcoat first to make sure everything adheres properly. [links]