See full version: Yamaha 50hp gearbox tight out of reverse
Also, I don't know if your engine has it or not but Yamaha uses an ignition CUT OFF switch on some of its motors. When you try to switch from gear to neutral, it kills ignition momentarily, to make shifting to neutral easier (takes the load off the prop/system for easier getting into neutral)
*Thanks for the post Robert, basic's first, probably isn't an issue to speak of.. here
What you might do, until your comfy with the engine, is put the shift lever in neutral, then paint a smallish, white dot on both the lever and control box that line up. here
*Thanks for the post Robert, basic's first, probably isn't an issue to speak of..
Forgot to mention, there's usually a mark on the engine, where the slid goes back and forth, that should be the center or neutral spot. here
Also, I don't know if your engine has it or not but Yamaha uses an ignition CUT OFF switch on some of its motors. When you try to switch from gear to neutral, it kills ignition momentarily, to make shifting to neutral easier (takes the load off the prop/system for easier getting into neutral) [links]
Re: Forward/Reverse backward [links]
The shifter is correct when it shifts CW to forward. Right now you shift CW into reverse.
I recommend you set the motor to neutral, and then drop the gearcase, and repair the waterpump.
Here's what I THINK needs to happen. First off, I FEEL LIKE am pretty comfortable with getting the lower unit off/on, assuming I don't hit any of the snags that seem common (water oulet tube staying in lower unit, driveshaft refusing to part, etc. ) [links]
Now the tricky part. I have done this, but forget exactly which way I turned the shift shaft. You need to turn the shift shaft past forward or reverse (I forget which one) to get to neutral. Do it gently, and you will be OK.
not much you can do with it in the water.
don't even think about sensor swapping.
I have only seen 1 failed shift actuator.
I have done way to many shift shaft bushings. here
I'm chasing a mobile mechanic but he is buried right now. more
the bushing is in an AL carrier and the shaft is steel.
once the busing gets to tight the shift actuator cannot push it.
bushing costs about $3.10, requires powerhead removal to change it. more
I remembered some more info that may or may not help with further diagnosis. Before I discovered the shifting problem I had a low battery voltage warning. I attempted to charge batteries by running motors at idle as the batteries are buried and require some dismantling to charge. This seemed to clear the warning but then I discovered the shift problem. Figuring they may be related I got access to the batteries and fully charged overnight. However fully charged batteries didn't resolve the issue. Should I attempt a control box reset to rule this out? If so, what is the procedure into initiate a reset?
if you get two blue lights when idleing in N and the yellow when shifting then watch the actuator when someone moves the helm lever. [links]
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