sstsf
06.06.2021 9:13:14
Those screws with the spring are the idle fuel mixture screws. The engine service manual should provide an initial number of turns that they should be backed out. [links]
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Those screws with the spring are the idle fuel mixture screws. The engine service manual should provide an initial number of turns that they should be backed out. [links]
The problem is fuel delivery at WOT, not at idle. Something is preventing the carb bowls from maintaining an adequate fuel level to allow the high speed jets to pick up the fuel. Check for clogging fuel lines (ethanol will deteriorate fuel hoses), maybe a collapsed hose liner where you reattached it over a barb fitting (use 2 stroke oil to lube the fitting before attaching the hose), any fuel filters either water/fuel or on-engine. Look for small specks in the on-engine fuel filter which may indicate hose deterioration. Take another look at insides of those carbs if you don't see a problem with the aforementioned.
A rod, piston or serious knock is not subtle and you can change the noise by manipulating the throttle. The real thing to look for in all engines are a marked “rattle up” or “rattle down” noises that follow the throttle. You should not run bikes making noises like this.
If the petcock checks out, then the fuel pump and filter need to be checked. Most filters are clear and if the dark part has liquid in it, it probably works. Pumps can be tested by putting a finger on them and clicking the ignition from off to on. You should feel the pump “click” as it primes. If there is no click, check the fuses. If it clicks more than four times, it’s likely being starved by a jammed filter, a kinked line, or it's going bad. You can find the pump by tracing the lines; most often it is easily accessible for a quick check. more
A no-start can seem like something impossible to fix except in the shop, but there are many problems that can be resolved with some detective work. First, ensure the battery is good and that the engine turns over. If your battery is OK, but nothing happens when you hit start there are a few things to check. Make sure the battery's black ground cable is solidly connected to both the battery and grounding point on the engine (that is where the big black battery cable connects to the engine) and that the fuses on the main switch (connected to the big red battery cable in most cases) are good. Clutch switches, kickstand switches and the neutral light can all break to cause this type of problem. Try starting with the kickstand up, clutch in, and bike in neutral to see if the motor spins. If not, these switches can normally be bypassed with a paperclip pressed into both ends of the connector one at a time, MacGyver-style. Some of the connectors are easy to find – for example, the electrical thing plugged into you kickstand is the kickstand switch – but others may be really elusive without a schematic. Especially on a newer motorcycle. [links]
No matter if you have EFI or carbs, a Harley-Davidson or a Honda, here is a list of five common problems and triage steps you can take to diagnose the nature of a mechanical issue. Even if you can’t fix it, you don’t have to blindly trust your hard-earned cash to the honesty of the nearest “reputable” mechanic. Get your toolbox out: it’s time to lift the tank!
First, make sure there is gas in the tank and the petcock is set to On, Reserve, or Prime. Riders with more modern motorcycles will have no idea what a petcock is, but it's worth making sure your bike isn't equipped with such a thing. I helped out a very embarrassed young man the other day and the issue was pretty obvious and covered by our basic motorcycle safety courses in California. It helps if it’s set to “ON.”
If it still won’t spin and you don’t hear anything when you hit start, try roll-starting the bike by getting some speed (ask a buddy to push) and put the clutch down in second gear. If it starts, something is wrong with the starter system. Check the connections. [links]
I previously cleaned the carbs thoroughly before the second time cleaning it and it had sat for a while after that so I cleaned them again and found a little bit of dirt and stuff, and after trying it out after I cleaned it the bike bogs down a little less, but it's still noticeable, especially around the 6k range. The bike also dies whenever I press the choke in while it's warmed up, even slightly. I tried starting the bike with the choke and it'll work until it warms up a little bit, then anything after that kills it.
I recently did a head gasket repair on my 1986 Kawasaki GPZ1000RX and now that everything is back together it starts up fine, idles fine, and revs high without a problem while in neutral, but when I put it into gear and started driving it it'll drive fine when giving it slight throttle, but when I get to the higher revs, or when I open the throttle too quickly it bogs down badly, and starts stuttering, but eventually starts revving higher and leveling out. It sounds as if my carbs were dirty or clogged but they were literally cleaned a day prior to me test driving the bike. more
This never happened before, only just now. Bike used to have perfect throttle response before taking everything apart, and now it just seems to be bogging down more. I'm sure I got the timing right, and everything is in order, just not sure on what could be causing the bogging down, unless a carb passage is blocked by a foreign particle or something. [links]
[links]
I usually don't remove any links, once I put them up. I have had some dead links become active again after being gone for as much as a year. If you hit a dead link, try it again in a minute, hour, day or so, sometimes even a week or two or more.
¶ In my surfing over the web I have run across a number of sites which have parts and/or shop manuals. Here is a list. I do not host most of these, they are just links to other web sites. If you find a web site with parts or shop manuals on it let me know so I can list it here for everyone.
If you find something you like, download it as fast as you can. DO NOT think it will be there waiting for you tomorrow. It might not last another hour. Service Manuals links come and go like the wind. Grab it NOW.
Or, if you hit a dead link, right click and then click "Copy Shortcut". Now paste it into the "Wayback Machine". It may be achived there. more