Glad to hear the motor is serving you well. I chose this as a replacement for my '85 85hp Force because of its light weight, simple 3 cylinder design, and power tilt/trim. Hope it works as well for me as it does for you!
See full version: What is compression spec for 1998 Yamaha 90hp
Glad to hear the motor is serving you well. I chose this as a replacement for my '85 85hp Force because of its light weight, simple 3 cylinder design, and power tilt/trim. Hope it works as well for me as it does for you!
Thanks for the info and any advice! more
Re: What is compression spec for 1998 Yamaha 90hp? more
Found a used 98 Yamaha C-90 for sale. Want to check the compression, but I don't know what it should be.
Re: What is compression spec for 1998 Yamaha 90hp? here
Can anyone supply the compression spec for the 98 C-90?
From what I understand, USCG regs prohibit a plastic see-thru bowl in an enclosed space. You can either use the metal bowl (with drain plug) or mount it in a non-enclosed space. A friend of mine mounted his under the starboard gunnel.
I have used that type if filter in the past with a V6 merc. It was a standard replacement for a water separator. I had water issues (not related to gas) If I recall this was an approved filter for use in the the bilge. If this Racor is the same one, screw on type filter with a clear bowl that twisted to to the bottom of the filter. It also had a drain on the bottom of the clear bowl. You should be fine, but to be sure check the packaging, and web site for details. more
You may also want to consider the new 10 Micron filters which do better job separating water. more
Also, make sure that your engine does not have a built in water separator. If not, you should be OK with a regular Racor. I have a 2nd boat with a Merc 225 Optimax on it that has a separator inside the engine (horrid design) and I was told that if I mounted a normal Racor behind it I would probably encounter fuel starvation caused by the increased fuel restriction. Some suggested upgrading to a Racor with 3/4" fuel line openings, but I didn't want to take the chance. So, when I get a little water in the separator, I have to live with a loud, annoying warning buzzer until I get back to port and can take the cowl off and empty the separator. Truth be told, I am much happier with my Yammie 90 than my Merc 225.
Unfortunately the manual won't tell you what a pain the filter bowl can be to get off. Hopefully it won't be too bad for you as it will have been recently reinstalled during the service when the filter element will have been replaced. Yamaha make a special filter wrench tool for removing the bowl, but a normal filter wrench should get it off, or you might be lucky and even manage to get it off with your hands. Failing that, you can remove the whole assembly including the head, drain all of the fuel out and put it in the freezer for an hour or two, which sometimes makes the bowl easier to remove. It is best to refill the filter assembly with clean fuel before reinstalling to eliminate as much air from the system as possible and to reduce the strain on your fuel pump. Put some oil on the seal and on the filter assembly threads before replacement to make it easier to get off next time. Reinstall the filter assembly onto the head, taking care not to cross the threads and that the seal is in place, and tighten it by hand. When you are testing the switch for continuity as I described in my last post, remove the complete assembly including the head as one piece and test it as I described without taking it apart.
It could be a fault with the water separator. Do you have a water separating filter upstream of the engine-mounted filter? If so, have you checked that for water? If no water is present in the upstream filter also, check the sensor by checking for continuity with a multimeter across the wires from the sensor (remember to unplug the sensor first). If you hold the water separator assembly upright and then turn it upside down you should get a change of state (i.e. continuity in one position, but not in the other) as the float moves. I think you should get no continuity with the cup facing up (i.e. with the float in the down position) and continuity with the cup facing down (i.e. with the float in the up position). If you don't get a change of state then the problem is either with the switch or with the float in the water separator assembly. Did you tilt the engine up and down between starts when you experienced the alarm? If not, the fault is likely to be with the switch as the float should not have moved. You can order the parts yourself and replace them or get a professional to do it.
Let us know how you go. If you need more help with parts please advise the exact model number of your engine (including the 2 or 3 letters after the horsepower rating) and the year of manufacture. here
Hello all, wondering if someone can help? The water separator warning alarm sounded when my boat was in neutral yesterday, only on the last start up of the day. Obviously a major concern especially since the boat was only serviced 15 hours ago. I have checked the separator on the motor and it is empty ( no sign of water), does anyone have a view? Could it be a fault? Can it be rectified without taking the boat to the shop? It didn't sound when I flushed the motor at home. Any advice would be appreciated more
As your engine is a 2009 model is it still under warranty? If so, once you have determined that it is definitely a fault with the water separator switch, you should take it into a Yamaha service centre and get them to fix it under warranty. I am not a professional mechanic, just a keen amateur with a good mechanical and electrical knowledge who has spent a lot of time working on outboards, most of which weren't mine! If I don't consider myself suitably experienced to comment on a problem then I won't, however I have previously come across the same problem on an F150 that you have so I should be able to work you through it and it should be relatively simple. Most dealers or service mechanics don't like doing phone or internet diagnoses because it's not good for business and they will have spent too much time fixing amateur disasters. [links]
Thanks Old Tub, really appreciate your detailed response. Planning to take the water separator apart from inside the motor as you mentioned. According to the service manual it doesn't seem too hard, will clean out and inspect, from the outside it doesnt seem to have water in it so I am thinking it may be a fault. Do i need to do anything special to re-prime orjust pump the bulb? Motor is a F150hp 4 stroke 09 model. Probably won't get a chance until Friday but will let you know how I go. Are you a boat mech? May need to pay you a visit if I have no joy, you offered more assistance than the service centre who I called today and payed $680 to Service my boat not so long ago. Thanks again, Matt